Tuesday, July 19, 2011

We're all back safe in Huaraz. The weather stopped us at 19000 on Chopicaqui. Details to follow...

Thursday, July 14, 2011

And we are off again... next stop Chopicaqui basecamp.

Wednesday, July 13, 2011

Basecamp view

Back in Huaraz

We're back in Huaraz for the night. Switching to the Llanganuco Valley tomorrow for an attempt on Chopicalqui (background photo for the blog). If all goes to plan we'll summit on Sunday and be back in Huaraz on Monday.

Our week in the Quilcayhuanca Valley was a great way to acclimate. Our basecamp was in a meadow at 13600 feet with spectacular views of Pucaranra and Chinchey. We shared the 7 mile long valley with only a handful of humans and many free roaming cattle, horses and sheep. While there we did several hikes up to 15000 and a climb on Jatumontepuncu up to 17400, just short of the summit blocked by a massive crevasse and overhanging ice wall.

One thing that immediately struck us was the amount of glacial recession compared with photos from the mid 90s guide books we have. Several hundred vertical meters of glacier has melted away throughout the valley due to global warming. This has made getting on a route the most challenging part of the climb and in some cases such as San Juan made it nearly impossible to climb.

For this reason as well as weather concerns and route finding issues, we opted to forego Chinchey and change our attention to Chopicaqui. A shower, clean clothes, a soft bed and Pisco Sours were also a big influence on our decision.

Sent from my iPhone

Saturday, July 9, 2011

Change of address. Basecamp at S 9 deg 26.410 min W 77 deg 21.135 min

Click here for Google map

Wednesday, July 6, 2011

And we are on our way with clear blue skies overhead...

address for next 12 days

Click here to see where we will be at for the next 12 days.

Chinchey is the righthand 6000m peak just to the north of base camp.
Maparaju and San Juan are the 5300m and 5800m peaks to the east of base camp.

Check out the links to the left to get the exact details...